Hyaluronic acid is one of the most recognized names in skincare, and one of the most misunderstood.
It isn't an exfoliant, a retinoid or a brightening active. It's a moisture-binding ingredient, and that is exactly why it earns its place in so many formulas.
What Is Hyaluronic Acid?
Hyaluronic acid (HA) is a glycosaminoglycan, a long sugar-based molecule found naturally in skin. A 2012 review in Dermato-endocrinology describes it as the key molecule involved in skin moisture because of its unusual ability to bind and hold water. It is also the predominant component of the skin's extracellular matrix, the structure that surrounds skin cells.
On an ingredient list you will usually see it written as Sodium Hyaluronate, the salt form of HA that is commonly used in cosmetics, or as Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid, a version broken into smaller pieces.
What It Does for Skin
Attracts and holds moisture. HA is highly hydrophilic. The research literature describes it as able to bind up to about 1,000 times its volume in water. On skin, that translates into a softer, more hydrated-looking surface.
Supports a plumper, smoother look. When skin is well hydrated, fine lines look less noticeable and skin looks more even. A 2018 review of cosmetic HA research found that HA-based formulations improved skin hydration, and it also covered injectable and nutritional uses that are separate from a cream or serum.
Plays well with others. HA is not an active that needs careful spacing. It layers easily under serums, moisturizers and makeup.
Why Molecular Weight Matters
HA comes in different molecular sizes, measured in kilodaltons (kDa), and size changes how an HA behaves on skin.
In a 2011 study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology, researchers applied 0.1% HA creams of five different molecular weights (from 50 to 2000 kDa) around the eyes and measured skin at 30 and 60 days. All of the HA formulas improved skin hydration and elasticity. The lower-weight HAs, in particular the 50 and 130 kDa versions, were also linked to a reduction in measured wrinkle depth compared with the control-treated side.
A separate laboratory study found that HA of about 50 kDa passed through skin samples more readily than larger HA.
The practical takeaway is simple: larger HA tends to sit on the surface and give a smooth, cushioned feel, while smaller HA is better able to move into the upper layers of skin. Many well-built formulas combine both, which is why you will often see Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate listed together.
Where You'll Find It at True Colour Beauty
Hyaluronic acid appears across the skincare range. A few places to start:
The Youthful Hydration Serum pairs Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate with Sodium PCA and organically farmed sunflower seed oil for a quick-absorbing, dewy feel.
The Double Hydration Boost Gel uses a multi-molecular-weight HA complex alongside organically farmed aloe leaf juice in a lightweight gel that layers easily.
The Light Moisturizing Day Cream uses both Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid and Sodium Hyaluronate in a lightweight daytime cream with a smooth, matte finish.
The pH Balance Hydrating Toner adds Sodium Hyaluronate to a rose water and chamomile base for lightweight hydration right after cleansing.
The Calming Eye Cream includes both forms of HA to hydrate the delicate eye area.
You can browse every formula with HA in our Hyaluronic Acid collection.
How to Use Hyaluronic Acid
Apply HA products to clean skin, ideally while it is still slightly damp, and follow with a moisturizer to help keep moisture in. In the morning, finish with sunscreen.
If you are using a serum, apply it after cleansing and toning and before your moisturizer. If HA is already in your toner, gel or cream, use the product as directed.
HA can be used with niacinamide, vitamin C, bakuchiol and exfoliating acids. It is generally well tolerated, but as with any new product, patch test first if your skin is reactive.
What the Research Doesn't Say
It's worth being honest about the limits. Much of the strongest HA evidence involves specific concentrations, specific molecular weights and, in some cases, injected rather than topical forms. A cream with HA will not behave like a dermal filler, and results depend on the whole formula, not just one ingredient.
What the evidence does support is the core idea: topical HA is a dependable hydrator that helps skin look and feel more supple.
Frequently Asked Questions
What does hyaluronic acid do for skin?
It attracts and holds water, helping skin feel softer and look more hydrated and plump.
Is sodium hyaluronate the same as hyaluronic acid?
Sodium hyaluronate is the salt form of hyaluronic acid. It is widely used in skincare because it is stable and works well in water-based formulas.
Does the molecular weight really matter?
Yes. Research suggests smaller HA moves into the upper skin layers more readily, while larger HA sits on the surface. Formulas that include both give you the benefits of each.
Can I use hyaluronic acid every day?
Yes. HA is gentle and is commonly used morning and evening.
Can I use it with vitamin C or niacinamide?
Generally, yes. HA layers well with other common skincare ingredients.
Is it good for dry or dehydrated skin?
It is a strong fit for skin that feels tight or dehydrated, and it is light enough for oily and combination skin too.
Are True Colour Beauty products cruelty-free?
Yes. True Colour Beauty is Leaping Bunny certified.
Hydration, Without the Hype
Hyaluronic acid doesn't need exaggerated claims. It is a well-studied humectant that helps skin hold onto water, and that makes it one of the most useful building blocks of a hydrating routine. Explore the full range in the True Colour Beauty skincare collection.
Sources
Papakonstantinou E, Roth M, Karakiulakis G. Hyaluronic acid: a key molecule in skin aging. Dermato-endocrinology. 2012;4(3):253-258.
Pavicic T, et al. Efficacy of cream-based novel formulations of hyaluronic acid of different molecular weights in anti-wrinkle treatment. J Drugs Dermatol. 2011;10(9):990-1000.
Farwick M, et al. Fifty-kDa hyaluronic acid upregulates some epidermal genes without changing TNF-alpha expression in reconstituted epidermis. Skin Pharmacol Physiol. 2011;24:210-217.
Bukhari SNA, et al. Hyaluronic acid, a promising skin rejuvenating biomedicine: a review of recent updates and pre-clinical and clinical investigations on cosmetic and nutricosmetic effects. Int J Biol Macromol. 2018;120(Pt B):1682-1695.